Soul Meets Body: Hussein Chalayan At Audi Fashion Festival

The perfect closure to five days of non-stop fashion, Hussein Chalayan’s Fall/Winter collection could not have been a more apt finish with its aura of quietude and down-tempo rigour. Underscored with the creative visionary’s signature brand of intellectual underpinnings, this collection, however presents an array of highly wearable options that will complement any urban wardrobe.

Titled ‘Rise’, the collection is anchored by the dual concepts of disembodiment and being earthbound, where pieces command gravitas and strength with an element of lightness and movement in the form of transformative pieces and silkier fabrics that billowed and flowed. Models also looked beautifully serene as they slow-marched in deliberate, careful steps. Hair was swept back into a low ponytail, while makeup was kept matt with just a slight accent of pink on the lips. Ambient music from the likes of Trentemoller and Apparat provided the sonic backdrop to the show, where soft pulsations and disjointed beats echo the thoughtful, beguiling pieces.

Starting off with iterations of the black jacket, everything from capes, to utilitarian jackets to A-line coats and biker jackets boasted precise slits and cuts that speak of technical brilliance. Bottoms like exaggerated cuffed-up trousers and softer pieces like skinny pants that were sheathed in looser, silk-like flaps were also artful complements to the array of jackets.

Gently easing into brighter hued pieces, an abstracted ikat-like print was also spotted on several pieces. This included a knee-length shift with sheer layering, peplum-like jacket with asymmetrical pleats and more elegant version of a skater skirt. Peeling walls were also an inspiration for a few of the shifts, where laser-cut, floral-like patterns were stitched on, creating a crisp, textural effect that exudes that organic, truthful quality.

As the Chalayan army made their final march, audible cheers resounded. The festival’s director, Colin McDowell also wrapped the show up with a quick, heartfelt address, while the endearing designer himself expressed thanks and lightly joked about the heavier pieces coming in handy for the many of us who travel beyond our sunny shores.

As always, the wonderfully cerebral, and highly wearable collection serves as testament to the soulful search for meaning, change and grander sartorial flights of fancy.

Our Audi Fashion Festival coverage is a collaborative project with the good folks at plussixfive.